Four hundred miles south east of the Indian continent 26 atolls rise; more than eleven hundred thin slivers of land, barely breaking surface appear like emeralds flung upon a cobalt blue sea. Each atoll is composed of uncountable submarine reefs and glistening beach islands fringed by aquamarine lagoons. No other tropical isles or dream-like atolls rival these precious gems of the Indian Ocean. Some islands are adorned with lush foliage of coconut palms and banyan trees while others are just powdery white sand islets with or without a lone waving palm. Well-traveled writers describe the place as sexy, exotic and alluring; much like a dream lifted out of a fantasy storybook. Robinson Crusoe would have been impressed.

These are the territories of the Maldives, which stretch 760 kms north to south and 130 kms east to west. Of these only 0.4 percent or 298 sq kms is dry land, none rising more than 3m above sea level. This is a country of infinite horizons, endless blue sky, a vast expanse of azure sea filled with reef life and fishes in kaleidoscopic colours. With a predicted 5.8-mm ocean rise per year, all the islands will vanish beneath the waves. The Maldives is but a temporal phenomenon.

Whist there are 1192 islands, only 202 are inhabited by a nation that revolves solely on tourism and fishing. Though the population of 250,000 is relatively small, over 80,000 are cramped into Male, the 4 sq. kilometer island capital comprising of tourist shops, government buildings, mosques and the Presidential Palace. Geologically, the Maldives are desert islands, void of any vegetation, no fruit trees, no cultivable soil and a mammal diversity limited to six species comprising of rats, flying foxes and bats. There are not even dogs in the Maldives!

Maldives does not boast of any golf courses, cinema complexes or theme parks; too remote even for McDonalds. Admittedly the thousand and one islands are all unspoiled, and fabulously romantic; great for honeymooners and for those who have mastered the art of doing nothing or thrive at being a suntanned vegetables. But put your head beneath surface and watch the somewhat mundane white sand beaches and waving palms dissolve into a fantasyland where life is extravagant and vivid. Superlative is but ordinary. Underwater Maldives is remarkably different from the surface; a metropolis of never ending reefs composed of ridges, mountains, valleys, and fjords, columns and chasms extending right out to the edge of the atolls. Outer atoll steep slopes or walls plummet steeply to oceanic mountains and the mountains themselves drop to abyssal depths of 2km and beyond. Because the Maldives sit in the middle of the Indian Ocean, great migratory currents flow through the atolls, leaving behind rich plankton to procreate. Like an oasis in a desert sea, pelagic often drop in to check out the local scene. Hammerheads, whalesharks, tunas and orcas are frequent visitors. Tidal currents flushing through the channels brings a constant food source into the atolls, sustaining spectacular coral growth, which in turn supports a realm of reef fishes in extraordinary abundance. The Maldives is nature’s showcase of our water planet.

Blue water, spectacular marine life and ease of diving has made the Maldives the diving mecca among scuba divers. Supported by 80 dive resorts, and just about the same number of live-aboard dive vessels there are options to suit every whim and fancy. The standard of resorts and live-aboards, better known in the Maldives as Safari boats, varies considerably. While the quality of diving differs dramatically from atoll to atoll, island to island during the year, the standard and skills of the diving operations vary to suit the type of clientele they best service. Obviously choosing the ‘right’ resort or live-aboard is an important issue, which may turn one dream holiday into a nightmare. A map of the Maldives can be misleading – at a glance it appears as 26 large islands; in reality they are 26 rings of islands and commuting between islands is nothing like calling up a taxi service. Booking a trip to Mars would have been easier. Once you get there, moving between resorts is near impossible unless you have unlimited cash to spare. Essentially, all the resorts are good, but if you are the only English speaking person in an Italian dedicated resort, they will make it a point to make feel like a lizard from another planet. Careful planning is essential.

The Maldives is addictive; once is never enough. The myriad of life in every imaginable and unimaginable colour and form is signature of the richness of nature’s richest realm, rivaled nowhere in intensity. If I had to choose three words to describe the diving in Maldives, they would be "predictably great" and "abundance".

Of the 26 atolls, only 8 are open to tourism. Due to their proximity to the international airport on Hulhule island, almost 90 percent of resorts are concentrated around the atolls of Ari, North Male, South Male, and Felidhoo atolls. Baa, Addhoo and Lhaviyani are all single resort atolls. To preserve their unique culture and traditions, all other atolls are restricted areas although Haa Alifu atoll in the extreme north end of the chain has been recently cited for tourist development.

Don’t bother to ask your agent to book a limousine upon arrival. Hulhule is just an island reclaimed from the sea, comprising of a narrow runway, airport buildings and nothing else. A marina with wooden decking, replacing boring asphalt parking lots runs alongside the runway. A menagerie of "plastic fantastic" launches and dhonis, the Maldivian version of Viking vessels, wait to transfer guests to safari boats or resorts in North or South Male atolls. Transfer to other atolls is best made by seaplane or if you are game to jump straight into an adventure, try the fleet of decommissioned Russian helicopters captained by pilots from Bulgaria.

Transfer by dhoni to Male the country's capital island from the airport costs US$5 and is well worth a visit if you have a spare afternoon. The bazaar of downtown Male offers souvenirs catering to every tourist’s fancy and delight; hand painted T-shirts, fish designed playing cards, fish guides, cheap sculptures, postcards, coconut monkeys and silverware are all on bargain as long as the exchange is for Uncle Sam’s dollars. (US $). The main event of the day is at 4pm, when multi-coloured fishing dhonis return to port; five to six boats deep, as far out as the breakwater, these boats cramp into dock to unload. Weary fishermen in blood stained loin cloths or tea towels literally drag in 20 kg yellow fin tunas and thousands of bonitos up a make shift wooden ramp and across the cobbled street into the fish market floor. Wheeling and dealing begins in a language faster than the speed of steam locomotion. Every once in a while, a trader will silence the rhythmic chatters with a soliloquy of abuse in rapid-fire mode, which every mother in law would love to master. This is fishy ringside entertainment at its best.

Currently there are 80 resorts, with another 14 under construction, each occupying its own island with the exception of Kuramathi in the Ari atoll that has three resorts. As mentioned earlier, getting around the Maldives is expensive, and most often impossible to arrange. There are no regular island to island ferries and even the ‘air taxis’ go to and from the airport rather than from island to island. Thus if you chose to be diving resort based, your Maldives experience is often limited to the resort, the island you are on, the airport and dive sites no more than one hour away from where you stay.

All the atolls and islands are beautiful, varying in size and shape but identical in characteristic; blue lagoon, white sand beaches, waving palms, some bending over the water, meshed with endemic flowers and scrubs, intensified by a halcyon sea. All are perfect icons of tropical paradise. Generally the resorts are well run, but management style and concept of service varies according to owners, size and clientele. The majority of the resorts have a definite European flavor, dedicated entirely to serving either the German, Italian, Swiss or French clientele. While some are relentlessly western, some offer local and Asian cuisine solely for variation sake. Don’t expect authenticity, but quality is generally good to above average.

Many resorts are relatively small by international standards, offering a tranquil and discreet atmosphere. If you are honeymooners or an aspiring hermit, they are your ideal setting. Believe me, you may spend a couple of weeks on one of such resort and still feel you have hardly seen anyone the whole time. However, if you are a naturally gregarious, young and single, Club Med on Farukolhufushi is your kind of scene. If big hotels are your comfort zone, resorts like Paradise Island with 600 rooms have all the activities and facilities of the big city counterparts.

At the other end of the scale, the top end that is, you find the opulent class of resorts. The Four Seasons Maldives at Kuda Huraa and Soneva Fushi at Baa Atoll are specifically detailed to cater for an exclusive clientele, for those who desire the best or something extraordinary. If you feel that you deserve the pampering and have the money to splash, why not? After all, if they are good enough for Michael Jackson and the prince and princess of you know where, they must be good enough for you too.

Except for a few, the majorities are segregated by nationality - though this tends to be a result of marketing, rather than coincidence. As I mentioned earlier, book into one that is not your kind and though mostly unintentional, discrimination can be obvious. I have friends that were asked to change rooms three times in 7 days by the management wishing to please some of their pet German clients. Never feel compelled to choose one of the resorts represented by your local travel agent. Most of them are just resellers and have never actually been to the resort. If you have identified a resort of particular interest, you should ask your agent to negotiate a package for you. Unless you have experience at signing, you will probably be happier at a resort where most people speak your own language. The most economical way to visit the Maldives is to buy a package that includes airline ticket, food, transfers, diving and accommodation.

If savoring the crème de la crème of underwater Maldives is your primary concern, a diving safari through the Maldives is definitely the way to go. In the past few years, the number of boats offering extended trips around the atolls has increased exponentially. With careful planning and a dogged persistence it is possible realise a dream adventure over an 11-day trip - one of those that you can talk about for years. On my safari trip in 1997, besides seeing some of the most prolific soft coral reefs, reef fishes and pelagics in intensity unrivalled by any memory I can recall, we saw hammerheads, spinner dolphins, mantas, whale sharks and orcas.

The standard of safari boats ranges from sardine class converted fishing boats, modern cruisers, and a replica of an 18^th century galleon to ocean going 40 meter vessels. Again the concept and style of service is predominantly European, with a laid back attitude amidst a relaxed atmosphere of sun, beer and sleep and if the spirit moves, maybe one or two dives per day. If you are a die-hard diver, these are the boats to avoid.

Fortunately there are now a new breed of entrepreneurs with a keen interest to lure the lucrative American divers by offering up to four dives per day. Though I have not been on either the Madivaru 7 or Manthiri, feed back from those who have is good. For those who wish to indulge in the flavor of sailing in a vessel with an 18^th century ambiance, MSV Barutheela, the diving galleon is an excellent choice. Managed and run by an Austrian and Maldivian crew, it has all the ingredients for a romantic adventure under an expanse of endless sky. All these vessels are exquisitely furnished, with the comfort of en-suites, hot water and excellent western style food.

One unique practice is common to live-aboard boats in the Maldives; the diving is always done off a small dhoni, which follows the main vessel like a puppy dog. Compressors, tanks and dive gear stay on the dhoni for the entire trip. They serve strictly as a dive platform, as well as a pick up boat. This is an excellent idea but a hard act to follow elsewhere; compressor noise is not exactly music to the ears nor lullaby for that all-important snooze between dives.

Unless otherwise pre-arranged, most dive safaris begin and end at the airport. For those flying out in the evening, the afternoon may be an ideal chance to visit Male. To make the most of every diving day on a safari, it is a good idea to stay for a day or two in one of the resorts near Male to off gas as well as to practice the art of doing nothing on one of the most idyllic islands on earth.

Though many of the dive sites in the Maldives are suitable for inexperienced divers, raging and unpredictable down currents have through the years been responsible for many diving accidents. As such, diving operators are serious with their application of diving standards and practices.

Turn up without your certification card and you will not be able to dive. If you have less than 15 logged dives, a check out dive in lagoon conditions is a pre-requisite. Many of the best dive sites are rated for "experienced divers only", which is interpreted as those with in excess of 100 openwater dives. Other than the house reef, buddy diving alone in pairs is not allowed. All dives are lead by a divemaster or instructors. The operator is pretty rigid to enforce this standard especially for those high-powered drift dives through the channels. Diving beyond decompression limits is asking for trouble and a 30m-depth limit for recreational diving is strictly adhered to. If you are a professional with a specific assignment, send your credentials before arrival and some arrangements may be made.

A safety sausage with an 8m line attached to the opening should be a mandatory accessory for all divers. Especially diving in area known for boat traffic, divers should not surface without first sending the ‘parachute’ up to the surface. This will warn boaters of the presence of divers in the water, as well as attract the attention of the pick up boat. After surfacing, the sausage should remain inflated until the diver is ready to exit the water. This gadget is also ideal for use during safety or decompression stops, especially in open water or drift dives. In the Maldives, all dive leaders carry this device and they use them on every dive.

With the exception of few sites, most of the diving in the Maldives is drift dives that can be classified into:

Dives outside the atoll - dives outside the atolls are generally done during an outgoing current, where visibility is better than inside the atoll. Typical terrain is a steep slope that goes down in steps or a wall that plunges into dark abyssal depths. These are the sites for great pelagics, hammerheads, eagle rays and whale sharks. Sticks close to reef unless you wish to hitch a ride to Burma or Africa; both are a long way away.

Dives inside the atoll – these are the inner reef and submerged reefs dives. Generally they are safe and easy diving for all levels, especially when they are not in the vicinity of a channel and are dived with an incoming current. Reef fishes in unbelievable abundance are predictable at these sites and as most are territorial species, familiar faces are found in each place year after year unless otherwise exploited by selfish and bad human beings.

Diving in the Channels – these are high-pressure dives. The ocean flushes into the atoll and out again through these channels. Like a great plumbing system, each incoming tide brings clean, nutrient rich water while outgoing tides wash out the dirty water. Obviously the best time to dive these channels is during incoming tide when visibility is at the optimum to watch pelagics, tunas, jacks and sharks hanging out to feed at the mouth of the channels. The best staging area to watch the show is close to the reef but away from the mouth of the channel at a 20–30m depth. If caught in the incoming current too soon, especially in shallower depths, you will miss the show entirely but the ride is guaranteed to give the adrenaline a work out.

The currents in the Maldives defy even the most experienced oceanographer. The theory of the ‘seven and a quarter hour’ tidal change cannot be used to predict the time for slack water and change of current direction. Once during a safari trip’s dive brief for the next day’s diving, our Maldivian divemaster predicted 3 incoming tides for 3 channel dives all within a ten hour period. A law professor challenged the brief but his ego was much reduced the next day after the third dive. There is a story somewhere in this – listen to your divemaster, especially if he is Maldivian. Inside the atolls, water often runs in or out long after the tide has turned. Precise and long term data on tidal ranges, flows and patterns are non-existent in the Maldives.

Words to be familiar with:

Faru – large reef sometimes exposed at low tide. Farus inside the atoll are mostly easy diving at all times. Dives made on Farus outside the atoll generally have better visibility especially during out going current.

Giri – small patch of reef that comes to about a meter beneath surface in the atoll.

Thila – submerged reef system that comes to about few meters beneath surface. A thila can be composed of a series of giri. These have an abundance of reef life.

Kandu – channels which translate to high power adrenaline dives.

Just as you would greet anyone by asking, "how are you today?" in your day to day life, there’s no reason to leave this etiquette behind when you travel. With the locals, be generous with your "haalu kihineh ?", how are you? in Divehi, the Maldivian language, you will be rewarded with some wide-eyed surprise and broad smiles. Unfortunately, not many European tourists have bothered with this mannerism, thus the Maldivians are easily touched by your gesture of having an interest in them. Appropriate response is "rangalhu" (fine). There’s no harm in being courteous thus shukriyya (thank you) is another useful word. If you intend to take up residency in the Maldives, just say " Kalaa hustha? " to a girl or boy of your fancy but if you are a male, never, never say this to another.

Most resorts in the Maldives do not manage their own dive centres. The facilities are often leased out to diving dedicated operators, mostly run by German or Swiss management. As their clientele are predominantly European, their style of service follows suit. Scuba tanks are mostly equipped with DIN valves (adapters usually available). Most operations offer 2 boat divers per day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Night dives are strictly up to the whim of the instructor; if they feel up to it, which is not often, they may throw one in every now and again.

In view of an influx of divers from Asia, a few resorts have started to operate their own dive centre which cater to a more international clientele, offering up to four dives per day on a regular basis. Notably, the dive centre at Kuda Huraa runs double dives every morning, one afternoon dive and night dive if there are more than 2 participants.

Generally diving is confined to sites within a one hour boat ride from the resorts. Some dive centres however now offer extended full day trips to sites further away with a package comprising of double or triple dives, lunch and refreshments.

Dive boats used by the dive centres are generally 13m, broad beam, shallow sturdy draft, with generous sunshade. They are distinctively Maldivian, travel at about 7 knots and come mainly in two versions; the traditional wooden ferry style dhoni or a modern fiberglass open boat concept. Unless you are diving with an international class operation, you are expected to assemble your own equipment, don your own set-up and pay extra for the boat fares.

Divers often succumb to ear infections after a few days of diving or other untimely illness that may stop them from diving. With a paid-up diving package, refunds are unheard off. One obvious advantage for divers coming to the Maldives is that you do not need to commit and pay for a diving package before arrival. It is pay as your dive scenario or you may opt to purchase 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 dive packages, the bigger packages being better value for money. Some dive centres will even refund you for the ‘unused’ dives in their packages.

Questions you may wish to ask your agent before you confirm your booking. You may also contact the Maldives Tourist Promotion Board for a current list of resorts and safari boats, which includes telephone, and fax numbers to facilitate direct inquiries. At the end of the day, you may know more about the Maldives than your travel agent.

1. From which country is their biggest clientele?
2. Do they have staff that speaks your language?
3. Ask for a typical breakfast, lunch and dinner menu.
4. Facilities in the resort to guest ratio.
5. Do they run local island tours?
6. Do they run their own dive centre, if not ask to be referred to the dive centre.
7. Does the dive centre have staff that speaks your language?
8. How many dives per day? Night dives?
9. For safari boats; how many dives can you expect during your trip; you would want this in writing.
10. Sailing itinerary or are they visiting the sites you have read about.
11. For safari boats: how many tanks do they have on board to passenger ratio. Type of tank valves.
12. Does the boat have a desalinator?
13. Are they operating on Male time; boat time or resort time?
14. For resort based diving; does cost of diving include boat fares? * Most resort dive packages are for tanks, weights, guides and number of dives only. Boat fares are extra.
15. Ask for telecommunication facilities. Check for email access. Telecommunication to your own country from the Maldives is expensive.

Because some of the best dive sites in North Male, South Male and Ari Atoll attract up to eight dive boats at a time, a few safari boats and resorts have taken initiative to move their time one hour ahead of Male time. I have dived with the Four Seasons resort at Kuda Huraa and MSV Barutheela that were two of the first to make this adjustment and the difference is fabulous. Instead of sharing with another 50 divers, we had the reef all to ourselves on every dive. If you are tossing up between two resorts to go to, take the one that has initiated their time, that is one hour ahead of Male time. Fortunately for reasons best known to them, few resorts and boats have made such adjustment.

There are probably over a thousand known dive sites in the Maldives. I have dived quite a few but it would take a book for me to describe all of them. Here are my 12 favorites; they are indeed some of the most spectacular sites I have experienced.

1. Rainbow Reef or HP Reef - North Male Atoll

Nearest Resort – Maldives Four Seasons at Kuda Huraa

Hint - This thila sits in the middle of Himmafushi Kandu, so expect medium to strong current at most times.

I doubt that HP stands for 'horse power', but my assumption that it stood for 'high power’ dive has a lot to do with the name. With the immense profusion of multi-coloured reef life on this reef, the nickname of Rainbow Reef is more apt. The plethora of soft corals in every conceivable colour explodes like paint splash over three enormous coral heads and overhangs.

Between the tides, an enormous flow of water oozes through this channel. Jacks, Blue striped (Lutjanus kasmira) snapper, groupers and fusiliers indulge in a sea of nutrients. Lurking amidst the corridors of a luxuriant coverage of iridescent corals are red coral groupers, giant cods, crocodilefish, and scorpionfish. Eagle rays are often seen soaring majestically near the surface, undeterred by swift moving water. This is one of the top dive sites in the Maldives.

2. OKOBE Thila / North Male Atoll

Nearest Resort: Bandos

Hint: Thila dive, subjected to tidal current. Best time to dive, early morning.

This site comprises of three coral heads, the largest an ox-bow shape is 265 ft (80m) in length, separated from the two smaller mounts by a 100ft(30m) wide and 80ft (25m) deep canyon. A family of three Napoleon Wrasses is resident on this reef. Apparently German divers seeking soul mates in a most unlikely place befriended this family by feeding them hard-boiled eggs. The feeding of any marine animal has since been banned by the authorities, but these gregarious fish still see terra firma beings as a source of a free hand out. They are known to follow divers for an entire dive. To get them close, real close - just hold out your hand and wave secretly with cupped hand before hiding it again. We were contented to once again realise that animals of the ocean have indeed a memory, and are capable of responding and playing just like any of us. If left alone these fish live up to 50 years in the wild.

A cavern beneath the most easterly coral head is home to a resident group of 20 or so Oriental Sweetlips. Schools of barracudas, batfish, surgeonfishes and jacks are predictably found hovering between coral heads. The flow of nutrients feeds the reef; green tubastrae coral branch out among outcrops of luscious soft coral highlighted with tapestries of orange, purple and green Anthias fish, covering the walls of the canyon in entirety. Not all dives at Okobe Thila are great some are only good.

3. Rasdhoo - Madivaru Corner / North Ari Atoll

Nearest Resort - Kuramathi

Hint – Hammerhead dives , best time just before sunrise.

This site has its fame amongst seasoned divers of the Maldives. Just before the sunrise, schooling hammerhead sharks (Sphyra lewini) emerge from the depths to this corner on queue each morning. Chances of seeing them are good, but without daylight it makes publishable images tough. They are known to turn up in big numbers. Big Dog-tooth tunas (Gymnosarda unicolor) and Dolphinfish (Crayphaena hippurus) also lurk at the reef edge together with schools of black snapper to feed in the morning current. There are many other Hammerhead points in the Maldives, but Rasdhoo is the most well known.

4. Aquarium – North Male Atoll

Nearest Resort – Lhohifushi

Hint – Best dive just before incoming current.

The Aquarium is to the south corner of Lhohifushi, just before the channel. My favorite spot on this site is a coral rock at 18m that extend to a sandbank at 28m. On top of this coral outcrop are hundreds of Racoon Butterflyfishes, squirrelfishes and Oriental Sweetlips. They hang around this rock as if confined in an invisible aquarium. Recently I introduced this site to an award-winning videographer from Spain, Leo Blanco. For Two weeks thereafter he kept asking if we could dive the rock again, again and again. Whip corals, sea fans, a school of red snappers, Blue stripped snappers and white-tip sharks are all part of the set. I have photographed this site over a 3-year period; it just gets better and betters. Eagle rays, tunas and a huge Napoleon wrasse are frequently seen. If you ever get bored with this entourage, follow the incoming current into the channel to find a series of caves covered with orange and green tubastrae corals.

5. Nassimo Thila – North Male Atoll

Nearest Resort – Paradise

Hint: An easy dive when the current is right, but head straight for the series of pinnacles first.

This oval shaped submerged reef rising up to about 10m from the surface is a love-hate place for me. In 1997, while I was shooting for "Dreams from a Rainbow Sea", I placed one of my Nexus setups, complete with twin Iklelite strobes and fish eye lens, beneath a ledge at 15m. The sea was mirror flat and there were no other divers around. 15 min later when I came back to change setups, the camera was gone, vanished, vamoosed. Another unexplained mystery of the sea.

The main attraction of this thila is the series of large pinnacles scattered just off the reef on the northeastern side. Purple and yellow soft corals like marshmallows cover the surface and overhangs in entirety. Napoleon Wrasse and jacks are frequently found swimming in unison among corridors full of Squirrelfishes and Orange Fairy Basslets. Towards the right of the pinnacles is a long cavern system between 15m and 20m lusciously decorated with blue soft corals and sea fans. Red Groupers and Scorpionfish are found in abundance. Nassimo Thila is another one of the best dive site in the Maldives. Drop me there any day, I may just find my camera.

6. Banana Reef – North Male Atoll

Nearest Resort – Club Med

Hint: Best time to dive this site is between the months of August and October. During the north-east monsoon season (between Jan – April), watch out for the ‘washing machine’. If caught in it, just ride it out.

Banana Reef is the first dive site discovered in the Maldives and still among the best. The plate corals (Acropora) on the reef slope are some of the most pristine in the Maldives. The best diving on this banana-shaped reef is at the north-eastern end where there are caves, gutters and precipitous overhangs filled with ornamental fishes and soft corals. Perhaps the signature of Banana Reef is the large school of Blue Stripped Snappers that have made the large cave at 18m home. Always moving in the same direction, they do shape like a banana on the move.

Predictably found on the eastern fringe at 15m is a couple of thousand Schooling Bannerfish fluttering in the water like butterflies in a deep blue sky. Moray eels are seen in amazing numbers slithering from coral outcrops to coral trees on the reef slope and Cleaner Wrasse are always in demand to service an increasingly overpopulated reef. Banana Reef is designated as a protected marine area.

7. Guraidhoo Kandu & Embudhoo Express / South Male Atoll

Nearest Resorts – Fun Island, Kandooma and Embudhoo Village.

Hint – With 4-6 knot current conditions, these sites are for experienced divers only. Beware, the current boils on the surface on both channels. Must be dived during incoming current to see the pelagic.

Embudhoo Express and Guraidhoo Kandu are easily the most exhilarating dives in the Maldives in terms of pure adrenaline rush. Both dives are a challenging experience, testing skills in current conditions to the extreme, but the reward is some of the best pelagic action in the sea. The staging area is outside the atoll. Drop into the reef slope to about 25m and head towards the mouth of the channel cautiously. Believe me, you will know when you get there. Best viewing area, hang out at about 28m and watch the greatest show on earth.

Flocks of eagles rays soar like Stealth bombers, grey and white tip sharks in uncountable numbers whiz back and forth the entrance while jacks, tunas, rainbow runners and fusiliers engage in a chaotic melee right in front of you. Look out for a couple of large tame Napoleons, they are so to speak local identities at the site; familiar faces that you can look upon for comfort when the going gets tough. Masks are known to have flown. Once bored with the show or when air is down to 100 bars, take off for a ride of your life. Embudhoo Express offers a swift 2km ride into the channel in 3-4 knots current. Guraidhoo offers more of a roller coaster ride; a whirlpool effect cause by numerous overhangs tends to drag divers up and down during the journey into the atoll – stay close to the reef at all times.

8. Kuda Giri / South Male Atoll

Nearest Resort – Palm Tree Island

Hint: This is an excellent dive site for both day and night dives. Situated on the leeward side of a large reef, there is little current.

This coral head is almost perfectly round with a vertical wall reaching a depth of 30m. Kuda Giri is one of my personal favorites for many reasons; there are a few swim through caves between 10 – 15m with their entire wall covered with yellowed sponges, soft corals, oyster shells and are home to numerous Big-eyed soldier fish. Some of most photogenic clownfish I have ever seen live at the mouth of these swim-throughs. Most of them are the Clarkii species, but their choice of home (anemones with white tentacles), makes them look like playful ermines in snow. Beware, ill-tempered moray eels live among them. Around the giri, groups of friendly batfish are predictably found hovering near the surface. Turtles, Nurse sharks and White-tips take refuge within the many caverns around the giri. If you like wrecks, there is a very well behaved steel wreck in perfect condition, sitting upright from 20 to 35m. Kuda Giri is an extremely productive site for underwater photographers.

9. Fotteyo / Felidhoo Atoll

Nearest Resort – Alimathaa

Hint: Best dive during in-coming current; if caught in an outgoing, surface close to the outer reef.

This dive is a real treat, regarded by many as the best in the Maldives. I have dived this site six times and have fought to absorb each impression. Immense has a whole new meaning. Fotteyo has many possibilities; schooling jacks, tunas, sharks, turtles, Napoleon, snappers. But what make Fotteyo special is the series of caves between 25 – 40 m which are covered by some very unique soft corals not found in similar form or abundance any where else in the Maldives or in the world. The thick, lush soft corals in exaggerated fashion and form have been described as blooming cherry blossoms in springtime. Guidebooks have referred to them as cherry caves. This statement, I beg to differ from; they look nothing like cherries. The caves have a feel of fairyland, an ideal stage for an undersea musical of "The Little Mermaid", stuff of which dreams are made. The intensity, the richness leaves one breathless.

On the eastern side of the channel is Fotteyo Falhu, a fringing reef rising to a sand cay; the coral formation appears to be untouched, prolific large coral plates scatter the reef slope as far as the eye can see. Beware of accidentally wandering into ‘Trigger Valley", a sand cay on the right side of the channel. Titan Triggerfish by the hundreds are local denizens and they are mean and foul tempered. They attack divers for no rhyme or reason. If you take an effort to rise before daybreak, Fotteyo is another hammerhead point. I was keen and predictably we found them or they found us drifting in the blue at half past six in the morning.

10. Mayaa Thila – Ari Atoll

Nearest resort: Mayaafushi

Hint – The best action is always found on the side that faces into the currents. Beg on your knees to do a night dive on this reef; it is a highlight of anyone’s diving career.

In terms of fish life, the sheer abundance on this reef is incredible. The thila is about 80 meters in diameter and can be easily circumnavigated in one dive; that is if you can resist other distractions. The top of the reef starts at six meters, sloping to 12m, before dropping to beyond 30m. Caves, overhangs and ledges are found all along the reef wall. Though solidly built Grey Reef sharks are common, it is the number of White-tip sharks that are impressive. They are everywhere. Millions of anchovies disperse and regroup to form a variation of shapes stealing the show from the Grey sharks and their companions, the Rainbow Runners. While schools of Snappers and Batfish hover beneath coral trees, lone Great Barracudas play havoc with the fusiliers. Blue-faced angelfish, Clown triggerfish, Blue triggerfish, Dog-tooth tuna, Hawksbill turtles, jacks, moray eels, stonefish, and Anglerfish are all part of the ensemble that make this reef to be one of the greatest in the Maldives.

Because of the quality and density of this ecosystem, the axioms of life that play each night on the reef are footage nature filmmakers will die for. After dark, predators swing into hunting mode. Sharks seem to zoom in from every direction. Their sense of urgency and frantic search for prey are felt in wave after wave of electrifying melee. Even the bold divers are on guard. Moray eels are seen leaving their holes to search for unsuspecting scorpionfish. Octopuses are sighted in ambush position for a shellfish in passing. Marble Rays appear out of the dark to sweep on sand patches for shellfishes, bloating up occasionally when they land on an ill- fated prey. I was so impressed with Maaya Thila that I have selected the site to be the location for a 24-hour shoot to produce a coffee table book and video documentary. Mayaa Thila is a marine protected area.

11. Panettone – Ari Atoll

Nearest resort- Moofushi

Hint: Strong current but a fantasy ride through a paint box. Experienced divers only.

Panettone sits in the middle of Kalhahandhi Kandu; as water flushes back and forth, this giri receives replenishment on a continuous basis. A long overhang between 12m to 25m along the reef wall is covered floor to ceiling with a plethora of multi-colored soft corals, sea fans, sea whips, and sponges. Squirrelfish, Angelfish, Fairy Basslets, Butterflyfish, Scropionfish, Coral Cod, Triggerfish, Pufferfish and Pipefish in various combinations of colours lurk among the corals and gaps.

Moving through this gap in a slow current, subliminally evokes feelings of a journey through an artist’s paint box. This site bears its name from the international Pantone Colour Matching system (PMS colour) used by graphic designers, printers, painters all over the wold. The PMS swatches comprise of more than 500 colours varying in hue and contrast. Panettone is the most colour intense dive in the Maldives.

A school of Giant Trevally (Caranx ignobilis) is denizen of Panettone, though not necessary attracted by the colours but the bottomless pantry of tasty morsels. The channels are ideal country to look out for reef sharks, Dog-tooth Tunas, Eagle Rays and Mantas.

12. Madivaru/ Manta Point – Ari Atoll

Nearest Resort – Hilton Rangali

Hint- Best time to dive is outgoing current when mantas convene to feed. Best months are from January to April.

Staging area is the outer reef, south side of Rangali Kandu. During the northeast monsoon, this is the best manta point in the Maldives. During outgoing current, the mantas, big mantas are found swimming up and down the reef slope to feed on nutrient rich water from within the atoll. Descend to the reef edge about 10m, swim along with the edge. Mantas are seen here enjoying themselves at cleaning stations as well as dancing blithsomely in the blue. Attempts to approach them will make them swim away; just hover and watch and in most instances they will swim right up to you to meet eye to eye. This is one special place in the Maldives where big gentle animal encounters are predictably good. During our trip in March 1998, we were fortunate to watch over 30 Mobula Mantas flying in formation at the speed of fruit bats in flight.

The reef top is good enough reason to distract one’s attention from the mantas; turtles, clownfish, octopus, schools of Bannerfish, Powder Blue Surgeonfish plus the school of three thousand bright yellow Blue-stripped Snappers is an awesome sight.

Notes:

• Board safari boat the night before or early on day one.
• Also be aware that Safari boats in the Maldives hate overnight sails. The best you can do is to organise them to weigh anchor early morning. For early morning crossings between atolls, plan anchorage for easy access to open sea.
• This plan is based on 11 full diving days, thus it is necessary to stay at a resort after day 11 for a 24 hour break before flying. This is highly recommended.
• This plan is based on a full boat charter between months of January and April.

North Male Atoll

Day One

Morning: dive HP / Rainbow Reef & Aquarium

Afternoon: set sail for Rasdhoo Atoll

Rasdhoo & Ari Atoll

Day Two

Morning: dive Rasdhoo / Madivaru & Maaya Thila

Afternoon: dive Halaveli wreck

Night: dive Maaya Thila

Day Three

Morning: Dive Bodu Thila & Fish Head (Mushimasmingili Thila)

Afternoon: dive Fish head

Night: Ellaidhoo housereef

Day Four

Morning: Dive Thundufushi Thila & Panettone

Afternoon: Panettone

Night: house reef Mirihi

Day Five

Morning: Madivaru –Manta dive 2 dives if suitable.

Afternoon: Angaga or mantadive

Night: Mihiri house reef

Day Six

Morning: Maamigili Faru & Dhidhdhoo Faru * good chance for whale sharks

Afternoon: Kudarah Thila

Night: Kudarah house reef

Day Seven

Morning: Broken Rock & Kudarah Thila

Afternoon: Dhiguran Thila or repeat Broken Rock

Night: no night dive for crossing to Felidhoo atoll

Felidhoo Kandu

Day Eight

Morning: Rakeedhoo Kandu

Afternoon & Evening: Fotteyo

Felidhoo / South Male Atolls

Day nine

Early morning: Fotteyo

Crossing to South Male Atoll

Afternoon: Guraidhoo Kandu

Night: Kandooma Caves

South Male Atoll

Day ten

Morning: Kuda Thila & Embudhoo Kandu

Afternoon: Embudhoo Kandu or Bolifushi wreck

Night: Bolifushi house reef or Vaadhoo Caves

North Male Atoll

Day eleven

Monring: Banana Reef & Nassimo Thila

Afternoon: HP Reef or repeat one of the morning dive.

Evening: drop off at Male for transfer to resort/

• My selection is based on one or more of the following criteria.

1. Uniqueness of the island or resort.
2. Standard of dive operation – eg. offering 3-4 dives per day.
3. Close proximity to my favorite dive sites.
4. They may be the only one in the atoll
5. Value for money.

1. Four Season Maldives at Kuda Huraa - North Male

Reasons: a, b, c,

Main Clientele: International

Fax No: 960 441188

2. Soneuva Fushi – Baa Atoll

Reasons: a, b, d,

Main Clientele: Intenational

Fax No: 960 230 374

3. Kurumba – North Male

Reasons: a, c, e

Main Clientele: International

Fax No: 960 443885

4. Kuramathi Tourist Village – Rashdhoo/Ari

Reasons: c, e

Main clientele: European

Fax: 960 320 274

5. Club Med – North Male

Reasons: a, e, c,

Main Clientele: International

Fax: 960 441997

6. Maldives Hilton Rangali – South Ari

Reasons: a, c,

Main Clientele: International

Fax: 960 450 619

7. Rihiveli Beach – South Male

Reasons: c, e

Main Clientele: French

Fax: 960 322964

8. Holiday Island – Ari Atoll

Reasons: a, c, e

Main Clientele: International

Fax: 960 314 565

9. Ocean Reef Club – Gan Atoll

Reasons: d, c,

Main clientele: European

Fax: 960 310 965

10. Kuredu - Lhaviyani

Reasons: d, c,

Main Clientele: European

Fax: 960 326 544

11. Halaveli Holiday Village – Ari Atoll

Reasons: a, c, e

Main Clientele: Italian

Fax: 960 323 463

12. Lily Beach Resort – Ari Atoll

Reasons: c, e

Main Clientele: International

Fax: 960 317 466

Copyright Michael Aw 4/96

How to Get There:

From UK: Regular direct charter flight on Monash Air. Or fly via Dubai on Emirates Air.

From Australia: Direct flight on Malaysia Air via Kuala Lumpur

Electricity: 220v AC 50hz

Airport Tax: US$10 in US dollars only.

Currency: US$ widely accepted and major credit cards.

Language: National language is Divehi. Working language is English.

Water: Water at resorts is generally safe to drink, but bottled water is recommended.

For more information:

Maldivies Tourist Promtion Board

Tel: 960 323 224 or Fax: 960 322 512

http://www.visitmaldives.com

Safari Boats:

The Coral Princess

Fax: 960 323 463

• Five star boat with 20 cabins.

THe Manthiri

Fax: 960 325 633

• one of those that cater to an international market.

The MV Barutheela – diving galleon.

* one of those that is trying to capture an international market.